Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Shelley English
Shelley English

A passionate traveler and writer with over a decade of experience documenting unique cultural encounters worldwide.